An Evolutionary Historical Perspective of Pakistan Retail Fashion Industry
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.31384/jisrmsse/2020.18.1.5Keywords:
Historical Evolution, Fashion Industry, Popular Culture, Retail, Pakistan fashion retail, Oral historyAbstract
This study seeks to capture the evolution (emergence, diffusion, and transformation) of the retail fashion industry in Pakistan from largely unorganized to modern commerce retail. In particular, it strives to understand this evolution of "collective activity" as conceptualized by Regina Blaszczyk in terms of interactions among enterprise, culture, consumer, and commerce in the context of emerging economies with an emphasis on past two decades 1998-2018. Narrative analysis is built from Project oral histories (16 in-depth interviews from various experts as well as ordinary consumers, who lived through and witnessed the evolution), supplemented by newspapers, magazines, web articles, and archives. The study demonstrates various political, cognitive, socio-cultural challenges and opportunities faced by early designers/retailers. It also establishes popular culture profound influence in the dissemination of fashion and branding the industry despite political upheavals. Although limited to the Pakistani case, this research outlines the founding feature of the flourishing fashion retail industry in emerging economies and the role of popular culture in the nourishment of creative industries. The evolution of fashion retail in South East Asia in general and Pakistan, in particular, has received very little scholarly attention. The historical analysis contributes a unique perspective in understanding drivers of this evolution as not consumers themselves but the ones who played an active role in the creation of the retail fashion industry in Pakistan build through historical narrative.
Downloads
References
Agha, S. (2016, August 10). Pride of Pakistan: Maheen Khan. Daily Times. Retrieved from https://dailytimes.com.pk/64569/pride-of-pakistanmaheen-khan/
Agha, S. (2018, August 31). Pride of Pakistan: Sehyr Saigol. Daily Times. Retrieved from https://dailytimes.com.pk/290409/pride-of-pakistan-sehyr-saigol/
Ahmed, Achim, B., Sara, K., Saskia, H., Johanna, A., & Martine, D. (2018). The State of Fashion 2018. Business of Fashion and McKinsey. Retrieved from https://cdn.businessoffashion.com/reports/The_State_of_Fashion_2018_v2.pdf
Ahmed, I., Achim, B., Balchandani, A., Robb, Y., Johanna, A., & Saskia, H. (2019). The state of Fashion 2019.Business of Fashion and McKinsey. Retrieved from Ahmed, Z. (2018, November 03) In interview with author/Interviewer: S. Kashif.
Ajmal, G. (2018, October 28) In interview with author/Interviewer: S. Kashif.
Aldrich, H. E., & Fiol, C. M. (1994). Fools rush in? The institutional context of industry creation. Academy of management review, 19(4), 645-670. DOI: https://doi.org/10.5465/amr.1994.9412190214
Aziz, S. (2012). Lighting a Path in Pakistan (Innovations Case Narrative: Bareeze and CARE Foundation Pakistan). Innovations: Technology, Governance, Globalization, 7(1), 19-33. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1162/INOV_a_00112
Bajde, D. (2019). Branding an industry? Journal of Brand Management, 1-8.
Bajde, D., Nøjgaard, M., & Sommer, J. K. (2019). Consumer Culture Theory and the Socio-Cultural Investigation of Technology Consumption Analytical Frameworks, Applications, and Impacts of ICT and Actor-Network Theory (pp. 171-190): IGI global. DOI: https://doi.org/10.4018/978-1-5225-7027-1.ch008
Barnes, L., & Lea-Greenwood, G. (2006). Fast fashioning the supply chain: shaping the research agenda. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 10(3), 259-271. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1108/13612020610679259
Belbağ, A. G., Üner, M. M., Cavusgil, E., & Cavusgil, S. T. (2019). The new middle class in emerging markets: How values and demographics influence discretionary consumption. Thunderbird International Business Review, 61(2), 325-337. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1002/tie.21980
Blaszczyk, R. L. (2011). Producing fashion: Commerce, culture, and consumers: University of Pennsylvania Press.Craik, J. (2009). Fashion: the key concepts: Bloomsbury Academic. DOI: https://doi.org/10.9783/9780812206050
Craik, J. (2015). Challenges for Australian fashion. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 19(1), 56-68. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-03-2014-0017
Crane, D. (2012). Fashion and its social agendas: Class, gender, and identity in clothing: University of Chicago Press.
Creswell, J. W. (2007). Research design: choosing among five approaches: Sage, Thousand Oaks, California.Deloitte. (2011). Hidden Heroes: The next generation of retail markets. Retrieved from https://www2.deloitte.com/content/dam/Deloitte/global/Documents/Consumer-Business/dttl_cb_Hidden%20Heroes_Global.pdf
Faisal, N. (2017). Fashion Pakistan S/S’17 kicks off — celebrating 10 years. Retrieved from https://www.geo.tv/latest/132096-fashion-pakistan-ss17-kicks-off-celebrating-10-years
Faruqui, S. (2010, December 15). Pakistans film industry and cinema culture. Dawn. Retrieved from https://www.dawn.com/news/591275/pakistans-film-industry-and-cinema-culture
Fullerton, R. A. (1988). How modern is modern marketing? Marketing's evolution and the myth of the “Production Era”. Journal of marketing, 52(1), 108-125. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/002224298805200109
Gabrielli, V., Baghi, I., & Codeluppi, V. (2013). Consumption practices of fast fashion products: a consumer-based approach. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 17(2), 206-224. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-10-2011-0076
Gazdar, M. (2019). Pakistan Cinema, 1947-1997 (2nd ed.). USA: Oxford University Press.Generation. (2018). History. Retrieved from https://www.generation.com.pk/history
Ghaznavi, H. Model Theories for the Friday times. Retrieved from http://atiyakhan.com/portfolios/the-friday-times/
Gilbert, J. (2019). European Fashion: The Creation of a Global Industry, ed. by Regina Lee Blaszczyk and Véronique Pouillard: Edinburgh University Press The Tun-Holyrood Road, 12 (2f) Jackson's Entry DOI: https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2019.0110
Hameed, U., & Umer, S. (2017). Comparative study on fashion & textile design higher education system, Pakistan vs UK. Paper presented at the IOP Conference Series: Materials Science and Engineering. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1088/1757-899X/254/22/222005
Hashmi, M. (2018). Profile. Retrieved from www.sehyrsaigol.com/pages/about1.html
Hollander, S. C., Rassuli, K. M., Jones, D. B., & Dix, L. F. (2005). Periodization in marketing history. Journal of Macromarketing, 25(1), 32-41. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/0276146705274982
Hussain, T. (2008). Textile Education in Pakistan. Pakistan Textile Journal, 43-44.
Image. (2018, September 12). Fashion Grads. Dawn. Retrieved from https://epaper.dawn.com/DetailImage.php?StoryImage=09_12_2018_503_002
Isani, A., Haider. (2007, August 05). Teejay still has designs on fashion, Instep Profile. Instep. Retrieved from https://jang.com.pk/thenews/aug2007-weekly/nos-05-08-2007/instep/mainissue.htm
Isani, A., Haider. (2013a, May 05). Fashion through the ages. The Dawn. Retrieved from https://www.dawn.com/news/1026258
Isani, A., Haider. (2013b, September 15). The way we wore. Dawn. Retrieved from https://www.dawn.com/news/1043025
Ismail, S. (2018, October 09) In interview with author/Interviewer: S. Kashif.Jabbar, J. (2017, October 16). Small screen, big screen. The Dawn. Retrieved from https://www.dawn.com/news/1362705
Junejo, S. (2018, December 05) In interview with author/Interviewer: S. Kashif.
Kalish, I., & Planer, B. (2013). The path to 2020: Taking the long view of retail market entry. Retrieved from London:
Kawamura, Y. (2011). Doing research in fashion and dress: An introduction to qualitative methods: Berg.Kawamura, Y. (2018). Fashion-ology: an introduction to fashion studies: Bloomsbury Publishing. DOI: https://doi.org/10.5040/9781474278515
Khaire, M. (2011). The Indian fashion industry and traditional Indian crafts. Business History Review, 85(2), 345-366. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/S0007680511000419
Khan, Z., & Brian, J. (2008). Pakistan after Musharraf: The media take center stage. Journal of Democracy, 19(4), 32-37. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1353/jod.0.0039
Lee, C. H., Ko, E., Tikkanen, H., Phan, M. C. T., Aiello, G., Donvito, R., & Raithel, S. (2014). Marketing mix and customer equity of SPA brands: Cross-cultural perspectives. Journal of Business Research, 67(10), 2155-2163. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2014.04.025
Lee, S. H., Moon, C. H., & Tu, T. L. N. (Eds.). (2019). Fashion and Beauty in the Time of Asia. New York: NYU Press.Lipovetsky, G. (1994). The Empire of Fashion: Dressing Modern Democracy (New French thought series): Princeton University Press, Princeton-New York.
Maqsood, A. (2017). The New Pakistani Middle Class: Harvard University Press.Marly, D. d. (1980). The History of haute couture, 1850-1950. London: Batsford Ltd.
Miller, D., & Merrilees, B. (2004). Fashion and commerce: a historical perspective on Australian fashion retailing 1880-1920. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 32(8), 394-402. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1108/09590550410546214
Miotto, A. P., & Parente, J. G. (2015). Retail evolution model in emerging markets: apparel store formats in Brazil. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 43(3), 242-260. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1108/IJRDM-03-2012-0025
Muhajir, T. (2018, 05 April 2018). Splendour Amidst Magazines. Aurora.Patel, Z. (2018). Pakistani fashion since independence. Business Recorder. Retrieved from https://fp.brecorder.com/2018/08/20180814399414/
Patton, M. Q. (2014). Qualitative Research & Evaluation Methods: Integrating Theory and Practice: SAGE Publications.
Peerzada, R. w. S. (2018, August 05, 2019). Nilofer Shahid | The One Who Changed The Fashion Scene Of Pakistan | Speak Your Heart. Rewind with Samina Peerzada. Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cf6ztodV8nc
PFDC. (2014). About Pakistan Fashion Design Council. Retrieved from http://pfdc.org/about/PIFD. (2018, 16th November 2018). Pospectus 2018. Retrieved from http://www.pifd.edu.pk/Propectus_2018.pdf
Plumer, K. (1983). Documents of life. Allen and wwin: London. Qamar, S. (2015). People feel modelling isn't a respectable profession: Freiha Altaf. The Express Tribune. Retrieved from https://tribune.com.pk/story/881956/there-is-still-a-feeling-that-modelling-is-not-for-respectable-girls-frieha-altaf/
Rasul, A., & Proffitt, M. J. (2013). Diversity or homogeny: concentration of ownership and media diversity in Pakistan. Asian Journal of Communication, 23(6), 590-604. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/01292986.2013.805797
Rawanian, F. (2018, October 19) In interview with author/Interviewer: S. Kashif.Rehman, M. (2015, April 26). Tête-à-tête: The woman who rules fashion, Newspaper. Images, Dawn. Retrieved from https://www.dawn.com/news/1177647
Rehman, M. (2016, June 25). Fashion Pakistan Council plays musical chairs – yet again. Images, Dawn. Retrieved from https://images.dawn.com/news/1175682
Rehman, M. (2017, August). 70, and looking even better. Images, Dawn.
Rehman, O. (2018, October 09) In interview with author/Interviewer: S. Kashif.
Reilly, A., & Hawley, J. (2019). Attention deficit fashion. Fashion, Style & Popular Culture, 6(1), 85-98. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc.6.1.85_1
Remaury, B. (1994). Dictionnaire de la mode au XXe siècle: Ed. du Regard.
Remy, N., Schmidt, J., Werner, C., & Lu, M. (2013). Unleashing Fashion, Growth City by City: McKinsey & Company.
Sabir, M. (2012). Analysis of mass media: Influences on Socio-political perceptions and stability in Pakistan. Journal of Political Studies, 19(1), 143.
Saeed, M. (2016, May 31). Rising talent: New kid on the block, Fashion. The Express Tribune. Retrieved from https://tribune.com.pk/story/1113586/rising-talent-new-kid-block/
Sattar, H. (2017). Retail Clothing Business; The talk of the Town! Retail Business Review, 23. Retrieved from www.brecorder.com/retailreview
Schwarzkopf, S. (2015). Marketing history from below: towards a paradigm shift in marketing historical research. Journal of Historical Research in Marketing, 7(3), 295-309. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1108/JHRM-06-2015-0021
Siddiki, S. Q. (2018, December 26) In interview with author/Interviewer: S. Kashif.Siddiqui, A. (2018, November 09) In interview with author/Interviewer: S. Kashif.
Sommer, B. W., & Quinlan, M. K. (2018). The oral history manual: Rowman & Littlefield.Statista. (2019). Fashion, Pakistan. Fashion, Pakistan. Retrieved from https://www.statista.com/outlook/244/294/fashion/pakistan
Stowe, N. J. (1983). Periodization of the history of marketing thought. Paper presented at the Proceedings of the first North America Workshop on Historical Research in Marketing.
Teo, B. C. C., Nik, N. S., & Azman, N. F. (2019). Making sense of fashion involvement among Malaysian Gen Y and its implications. Journal of Emerging Economies and Islamic Research, 5(4), 10-17. DOI: https://doi.org/10.24191/jeeir.v5i4.6236
Tribune, T. E. (2010, May 17). Fashion Pakistan Lounge opens in Lahore. The Express Tribune. Retrieved from https://tribune.com.pk/story/13904/fashion-pakistan-lounge-opens-in-lahore/V
Cast, O. (Writer). (2019). Meet Pakistan's pret wear pioneer - TeeJay. Pakistan.Weddingtv (Writer). (2011). Asian Wedding Designers - Maria B - WeddingTV [Youtube Video], weddingtv08. UK.
Weekly, G. (1991, 31st October ). Echeos of a Culture. Gulf Weekly, 6-7.
Wenting, R. (2008). Spinoff dynamics and the spatial formation of the fashion design industry, 1858–2005. Journal of Economic Geography, 8(5), 593-614. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1093/jeg/lbn030
Zhao, Y. (2012). Needle Pulling Thread: The Emergence, Diffusion, and Transformation of Ready-to-Wear Fashion in New York and Paris between the 1940s and the 1970s. Cergy-Pontoise, Ecole supérieure des sciences économiques et commerciales.
Downloads
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License
Copyright (c) 2020 Author
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
Copyright: The Authors